crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Jun 8, 2011 12:28:55 GMT -5
Up front, I am only looking for a general feel if there would be enough interest to pursue an idea. I am going to build a couple of 10 round magazines for myself, just for the heck of it. I like to be the guy who does things for no rational reason ;D. I will be ordering up some 4130 sheet steel, for making the bodies. I have already made a single sheet template from paper just to validate that it can be done as one piece rather than multiple pieces. I have absolutely no idea how labor intensive these will be to make them functional. My question is this, if it turns out that I could make these without investing huge amounts of time, would there be enough interest in these totally un-original magazines to make some more for interested members. There would be cost of materials, cutting, welding, dressing the welds, heat treating the body, fabricating followers, locating a suitable mag spring (or make one  ), marking it and lastly bluing it. I don't mind using my time for my flights of fancy, but if it turns out that I couldn't make these unless I charged an obscene amount, I wouldn't feel comfortable. My goal would be if I could keep cost per unit hovering around the $100.00 mark. Please feel free to give me opinions if you think it would be something that you would want and would the price be viable. My intent is that if they turn out to be a a royal pain, but work, I will try to document the construction and share it with the forum for other brave souls can follow my lunacy. REMEMBER I am not planning on making these unless it is easy enough to keep cost down and enough interest exists. Thanks in advance for your inputs. Mark |
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Post by Hardrada55 on Jun 8, 2011 14:08:16 GMT -5
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crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Jun 8, 2011 17:07:04 GMT -5
Yes, I saw the post, but that magazine was probably constructed almost a century ago. We have no way of knowing how much labor went into that and what was the overall construction method. I have seen the less than desirable quality of a certain manufacturers reproduction magazines. They are an ideal gift for an ex-wife or enemy. I am wanting to replicate the smooth lines of the base of the magazine and make it from quality steel. I don't want to create something that will be passed off as original, however I want it to look like it belongs there. I am going to sit down again and determine the correct radii and sharpness of the corners so that I can figure out how the wall thickness will affect my measurements now that I have a real magazine to work with. I created my paper template before I got the gun, based upon the cartridge dimensions, now I can eliminate some of the guess work. I don't have that much practice with forming steel sheet, but there is a first for everything and I have altered many common magazines to work in some fairly uncommon guns, so all I am doing is going to the next level to keep things interesting.
Mark
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Post by gigi101 on Jun 28, 2011 14:36:26 GMT -5
Hey Mark, I'm the guy you helped me with the Rem 241. as I mentioned to you on the phone ,this idea you have about fabricating a 401 cal. mag would be out of the question. reason being as you know I just finished up on a 401 SL and the magazine I took a close look at. with my 40 yrs. + as a tool & die maker, these mags were made in what we refer to as a "deep draw die" If you look at the one you have notice that there is no seams in it. also, tooling cost that you cant build without spending BIG BUCKS for a die shop to build and then charge you more bucks to run the parts on a 40-50 ton press. you may think about making one prototype and have it "heli arc welded" at the seams. for myself! I would'nt even think about it. feel free to email me with questions.
George
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crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Jun 28, 2011 19:34:43 GMT -5
George,
You are absolutely correct in noting that the originals are seamless. I am strictly looking at the potential for forming one from a flat and using GTAW (TIG) to create the "seamless" quality. I was surprised to find a local company that was very willing to do a small run on their laser cutter for the blanks if I want to do a quantity run. I am a fair tin-knocker and do not see too large of a hurdle to shape everything to the point I can weld it. Now, the part about making it work and such silliness is of minimal concern, since nobody else seems too troubled by it. I am a glutton for punishment and currently fitting the new butt stock on the earlier 1910 is my main concern, but I will have an antique 1892 Winchester (1894-95 production) in 38-40 becoming the focus of my attention in a week or so, then a Marlin 1889 if I win it. I am a textbook example of ADD when it comes to the diversity of the weird stuff I work on. I am still waiting for my Low wall barrel to come back from the re-boring shop so that I can chamber it in 38-40. As long as I don't croak before I finish all of my projects, I should be good for a couple of centuries before I check out. I like the idea of anything that makes normal people question my sanity (which is highly overrated), that is why I became a gunsmith. If I paid some SOB to do all of the things that the evil squirrels come up with, I would be broke. I appreciate your input very much, because as you see most people haven't even bothered to reply to this thread. Good luck with the 241, I am glad to help out.
Mark
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Post by Hardrada55 on Jun 28, 2011 20:33:41 GMT -5
Yes, I would probably plunk money down for a 10 round .401 magazine.
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Post by gigi101 on Jun 29, 2011 9:32:40 GMT -5
Mark, as you probably allready know. when you take the mag to the shop for tig weld, make sure they use mild steel filler rod. because if they use stn. stl. which is easier to weld with! it wont take the blueing .
George
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crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Jun 29, 2011 18:38:05 GMT -5
George,
I would be the welder for this since I would not trust anyone to do it other than myself. I know what you mean about the bluing issue, it is a PITA if you use harder rod.
Mark
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Post by gigi101 on Jul 1, 2011 10:25:34 GMT -5
Hey Mark, How is the butt stock project for the 1910 going ? What type finish as you going to do ?
George
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crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Jul 1, 2011 15:53:12 GMT -5
George,
I hogged out a recess for the receiver extension since I plan to bed the whole area for a rock solid base after inletting and roughed down the contact area into a general contact patch . I am idling right now until I can get a long enough wood bit to drill the holes for the stock bolt. Once I have that drilled, I will be able to snug up the wood accurately for my inletting black to guide me along. As for the finish, I will most likely use spray Tru-oil with no stain. The wood has some great color, with bold black mineral streaks and to darken it any more than it is, would be criminal. I won't rush to replace the forearm because I know that will be extremely tedious to fit, not to mention the fact that I need to come up with a good way to reinforce the wood so that it does not crack in the first place. I have a copy of the Winchester book by Madis coming and if it looks like this started life as a Deluxe model, I will look into finding someone who is capable of re-creating the checkering. I have been dabbling with rust bluing and one of my friends has a long enough tank to boil the metal after each rust phase, so I may get brave and give that a whirl. I have already found more things to keep me distracted, I will pick up an 1892 Winchester on Tuesday in 38-40 that needs the mag tube and forearm fixed (duct tape doesn't cut it) and at the end of next week, I will start my 10 day wait for a Remington 25 in 32-20 to keep its 25-20 brother company. Every time I stop and look in my safe, on my bench or in drawers, I realize I have a terrible sickness and I wind up with a grin on my face that you couldn't knock off with a crowbar. I will keep things updated as I go, but I am not a step-by-step photo type, so pictures will come later.
Mark
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Post by gigi101 on Jul 2, 2011 8:10:53 GMT -5
Mark, glad your making progress on the butt stock. Also I sent you an e-mail about a snag I ran into on the Rem 241. any feedback would be helpfull or maybe I should give you a call. keep in touch.
George
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crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Jul 2, 2011 23:13:39 GMT -5
George,
Sorry I hadn't got back to you, I have been preoccupied. It sounds like you have an issue with the striker and sear. Call me tomorrow so we don't throw the thread off topic.
Thanks
Mark
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Post by gigi101 on Jul 3, 2011 9:40:51 GMT -5
Mark, thank's for the reply. Will call you Sunday around 2-3 PM. your time.
George
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crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Dec 14, 2011 13:14:07 GMT -5
Okay, time to breath a little life into this thread again. I was just notified that my order for .025 4130 sheet steel is on its way from the metal supply outfit. I was contacted by another 1910 owner and he gave me a little momentum to pick this idea up again. I have experienced another episode of odd timing. I added a 1905 in .32WSL and a 1907 .351WSL last week and won a 10rd magazine for the 1907. Seeing that in place makes me want to do the same with the 1910. I will try to take a photo of the Self Loader family this weekend. I will try to document the construction of the magazine if I can remember to do it.
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Post by poppatis52 on Dec 28, 2011 19:28:55 GMT -5
Crank,
no interest in the 10 round mag but followed the story about building your stock and forearm. I sent you pictures of my 1910 that I completely rebuilt including the wood. I had a chance to talk with the master gunstock maker at one of the Missouri gun stock compaines. he recommended that you completely saturate the inside of the forearm with super glue. he says it works great binding the wood fibers. I did it on mine and so far so good. You are correct that fitting the forearm is a job. I dont want to think of how many hours i had in mine. FYI, I finished all the berdan casings i bought from you. I found an easy way to drill out the center nipple using two 9mm casings as drill guides. need to load them now.
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), marking it and lastly bluing it. I don't mind using my time for my flights of fancy, but if it turns out that I couldn't make these unless I charged an obscene amount, I wouldn't feel comfortable. My goal would be if I could keep cost per unit hovering around the $100.00 mark. Please feel free to give me opinions if you think it would be something that you would want and would the price be viable. My intent is that if they turn out to be a a royal pain, but work, I will try to document the construction and share it with the forum for other brave souls can follow my lunacy. REMEMBER I am not planning on making these unless it is easy enough to keep cost down and enough interest exists. Thanks in advance for your inputs.
