Post by crank on Jun 22, 2011 19:06:53 GMT -5
gigi101,
Unfortunately, there is no provision for holding the bolt open, at the range the best you can do is to put a larger rifle casing in to show that the breech is clear. The spring loaded plunger was an additional feature added by Remington to keep the bolt from coming out of the trigger group when the halves were separated. Be careful, the extractors have a nasty habit of getting lost during major disassembly and be very careful with the "locking ring" to avoid the ball bearing and spring also heading to Timbuktu. I just got back from traveling and did not have much time to reply back about the 1910, but the following info will help for both. If the rust you are trying to remove has not pitted the metal too badly, use Copper wool (NOT STEEL!) or an old bronze bore brush to attack the rust. It is tedious, but the results are great since it will not remove the bluing (although the rust might have). For the wood, if it is blackened from oil or extreme oxidation, use Behr 2 in 1 wood prep to soak the wood. It will amaze you what Oxalic acid can do and it usually doesn't raise the grain too much after you rinse the wood thoroughly, so you can avoid sanding. I just hit it with Tru-oil for several coats and strike it down between applications for a glass smooth matte finish. If you have any dents in the wood, apply a soldering iron with the largest head you can put on it, to a wet rag and carefully steam up the dent. It may not make it go completely away, but it will look a lot better and keep the character. If you have access to bluing tanks, PLEASE! don't buff the metal. Use various grades of sand-paper in a shoe-shine motion for the barrel and receiver top, a block of hard material for the receiver flats, and use a rubber eraser for curved areas. These guns were not high polish to begin with and a matte finish anywhere from 320-600 grit looks awesome.
Good luck!
Mark
Unfortunately, there is no provision for holding the bolt open, at the range the best you can do is to put a larger rifle casing in to show that the breech is clear. The spring loaded plunger was an additional feature added by Remington to keep the bolt from coming out of the trigger group when the halves were separated. Be careful, the extractors have a nasty habit of getting lost during major disassembly and be very careful with the "locking ring" to avoid the ball bearing and spring also heading to Timbuktu. I just got back from traveling and did not have much time to reply back about the 1910, but the following info will help for both. If the rust you are trying to remove has not pitted the metal too badly, use Copper wool (NOT STEEL!) or an old bronze bore brush to attack the rust. It is tedious, but the results are great since it will not remove the bluing (although the rust might have). For the wood, if it is blackened from oil or extreme oxidation, use Behr 2 in 1 wood prep to soak the wood. It will amaze you what Oxalic acid can do and it usually doesn't raise the grain too much after you rinse the wood thoroughly, so you can avoid sanding. I just hit it with Tru-oil for several coats and strike it down between applications for a glass smooth matte finish. If you have any dents in the wood, apply a soldering iron with the largest head you can put on it, to a wet rag and carefully steam up the dent. It may not make it go completely away, but it will look a lot better and keep the character. If you have access to bluing tanks, PLEASE! don't buff the metal. Use various grades of sand-paper in a shoe-shine motion for the barrel and receiver top, a block of hard material for the receiver flats, and use a rubber eraser for curved areas. These guns were not high polish to begin with and a matte finish anywhere from 320-600 grit looks awesome.
Good luck!
Mark