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Post by oldshooter on Apr 2, 2009 13:36:53 GMT -5
My recently acquired .401 wsl works well and shoots well, but looks a little ragged. The fore end wood is split along the bottom from reciever to fore end cap. I glued it with Titebond III, but it cracked loose later when fired. Bonding a thin layer of fiberglass or graphite cloth inside the hollow seems like an elegant solution, but is it tricky to get the fore end on and off? Is disassembly the same as with the 1907?
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Post by tnrifleman on Apr 2, 2009 18:51:32 GMT -5
First, welcome to the forum. I think your solution to the forearm crack should work fine. I'm not sure about disassembly though. I do think several guys on the forum are Winchester savvy and will respond.
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rmh
Junior Member
Posts: 95
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Post by rmh on Apr 5, 2009 10:21:27 GMT -5
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Post by oldshooter on Apr 6, 2009 9:19:35 GMT -5
Thanks, rmh. If I'm reading the instructions correctly, the foreend can be taken off without removing or disconnecting the recoil spring? My great fear is having springs pop out in all directions if I take off the fore end nut.
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rmh
Junior Member
Posts: 95
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Post by rmh on Apr 6, 2009 15:26:13 GMT -5
I found that a WinChoke spanner wrench is perfect for removing the forend barrel nut. With that loose, the forend tip and operating sleeve will slide forward with no problem. The forend is then loose and can be removed by also sliding it forward. No parts will go flying until you unscrew the bolt guide rod.
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Post by oldshooter on Apr 6, 2009 20:24:00 GMT -5
rmh, you're a great help. I've ordered my own copy of Whelen's 'The American Rifle.'
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Post by oldshooter on Apr 15, 2009 16:31:39 GMT -5
rmh, your tips worked, the 1910 is back together with the fore end Acraglassed very solidly. The Winchoke wrench was a trick to get, Brownell's said they'd been discontinued by the factory. Midwest had one and it was perfect for the job.
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