Post by colesdav on Jan 21, 2009 9:54:12 GMT -5
Everyone - I posted this on a different forum and got referenced to y'all. I've put some updates on the bottom with a few new questions as well - I'd like any and all thoughts on the matter...
Folks -
I've inhereted my grandfather's old Remington Model 8... but on further inspection it's got an issue. The barrel is stamped .300 Savage, which is obviously non-origional since the .300 Savage was only offered in the later Model 81. Every serial number on the gun matches, even the barrel sleve, but I can't find a number on the internal (actual) barrel. So, a few questions:
1) There is a .35 stamped on the bolt head - I know the caliber was indicated on the barrel chamber, but is this stamp on the head an indication that the origional rifle was chambered for the .35 (an option with the Model 8)?
2) .300 Savage ammo seems able to be extracted by the .35 bolt and it fits in the magazine. Can .300 be fired in this gun with a .35 action? What about headspacing, pressures, etc? Family verbal history tells me that my grandfather fired this gun recently before his death (unrelated), which leads me to believe this setup works?
3) If the .35 stamp is indeed an indicator that the rifle was chambered for .35, should I just keep my eyes open for a .35 barrel and swap it back to origional?
I would like nothing more than to take a deer this season with my grandfathers old gun... it's in excelent shape mechanicaly and It perfectly matches the schematics that I have - near as I can tell, there were no internal customizations, etc other than the wrong barrel.
There is a part of me, esp in consideration of the slam-fire problems that the model 8s had, that thinks I'd better just buy a Model 81 and hunt with that... not as historically pleasing, but probably safer... though I want the strait grip vs the 81's pistol grip... anyone know if stocks are swappable?
Obviously I'd LOVE a model 8 that shot .300 Savage, but I'd be more than happy with a .35 for some whitetail...
UPDATES:
1) I've discovered many coresponding parts between the .35 and the .300 on parts dealers, including the extractor... so it would appear that the .35 action can manipulate the .300 ammo
2) I've been told that the .300 barrel can be swapped but that the springs also need to be changed to maintain safety and functionality
3) I've been referenced to John Henwood's book who apparently has a section discussing a .35 to .300 swap out...
4) I've disassembled the gun and discovered a broken firing pin. I've ordered one, but I can't figure out how to get the broken one out of the bolt. Is there a trick to this? Everything else is stripped... which leads to #5
5) I have a blurry exploded diagram from the internet, but I don't think it's going to be enough for me to get all those pieces back together... I've seen a few "gunsmith" manuals on ebay for ~$10.00, but it looks like there are several. Any advice on which one is good, or does someone have a .PDF?
So far it looks like my conclusion is to buy new springs for the .300 Savage and replace the firing pin and take her to the range... unless someone starts screaming "don't do it"...
Love to hear anything on this - after all the family history and the long nights of researach that I've done on this gun, I've really fallen in love with it and want nothing more than to see it live again - ideally put some meat on the table with it in the fall!
Folks -
I've inhereted my grandfather's old Remington Model 8... but on further inspection it's got an issue. The barrel is stamped .300 Savage, which is obviously non-origional since the .300 Savage was only offered in the later Model 81. Every serial number on the gun matches, even the barrel sleve, but I can't find a number on the internal (actual) barrel. So, a few questions:
1) There is a .35 stamped on the bolt head - I know the caliber was indicated on the barrel chamber, but is this stamp on the head an indication that the origional rifle was chambered for the .35 (an option with the Model 8)?
2) .300 Savage ammo seems able to be extracted by the .35 bolt and it fits in the magazine. Can .300 be fired in this gun with a .35 action? What about headspacing, pressures, etc? Family verbal history tells me that my grandfather fired this gun recently before his death (unrelated), which leads me to believe this setup works?
3) If the .35 stamp is indeed an indicator that the rifle was chambered for .35, should I just keep my eyes open for a .35 barrel and swap it back to origional?
I would like nothing more than to take a deer this season with my grandfathers old gun... it's in excelent shape mechanicaly and It perfectly matches the schematics that I have - near as I can tell, there were no internal customizations, etc other than the wrong barrel.
There is a part of me, esp in consideration of the slam-fire problems that the model 8s had, that thinks I'd better just buy a Model 81 and hunt with that... not as historically pleasing, but probably safer... though I want the strait grip vs the 81's pistol grip... anyone know if stocks are swappable?
Obviously I'd LOVE a model 8 that shot .300 Savage, but I'd be more than happy with a .35 for some whitetail...
UPDATES:
1) I've discovered many coresponding parts between the .35 and the .300 on parts dealers, including the extractor... so it would appear that the .35 action can manipulate the .300 ammo
2) I've been told that the .300 barrel can be swapped but that the springs also need to be changed to maintain safety and functionality
3) I've been referenced to John Henwood's book who apparently has a section discussing a .35 to .300 swap out...
4) I've disassembled the gun and discovered a broken firing pin. I've ordered one, but I can't figure out how to get the broken one out of the bolt. Is there a trick to this? Everything else is stripped... which leads to #5
5) I have a blurry exploded diagram from the internet, but I don't think it's going to be enough for me to get all those pieces back together... I've seen a few "gunsmith" manuals on ebay for ~$10.00, but it looks like there are several. Any advice on which one is good, or does someone have a .PDF?
So far it looks like my conclusion is to buy new springs for the .300 Savage and replace the firing pin and take her to the range... unless someone starts screaming "don't do it"...
Love to hear anything on this - after all the family history and the long nights of researach that I've done on this gun, I've really fallen in love with it and want nothing more than to see it live again - ideally put some meat on the table with it in the fall!