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Post by battis on Feb 13, 2022 22:03:30 GMT -5
I recently bought a Standard Arms Model M in .30 Rem (serial number 1426). The barrel marking is Standard Arms Co. I'm going to convert .30-30 brass until I locate some .30 Rem brass. I have found some brass, at a good price, but both sellers want to sell 100 -170 pieces. I only need 50 or do. I have .30-30 bullets (I have to slug the bore), brass and dies (Lee FS dies and a set of collet dies marked 30-30/30 Rem). I found the correct RCBS shell holder for $1.00. I make WSL .35 and .351 from .38 and .357 Mag brass with no extractor grooves using a drill press and files. I'll try making the .30 Rem without the grooves. Anyways, the rifle is in great shape - great bore, nice wood, functions very well. It's a nice addition to the collection, even if it's not semi-auto.
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Post by battis on Feb 22, 2022 7:10:28 GMT -5
I traded for 100 pcs 30 REM. I have 30-30 dies so I loaded up a dozen of each (30 REM, 30-30) using a cast bullet and Red Dot powder (6 grs). I only had to switch the shell holder for each caliber - the powder loads and settings are exactly the same for each. The Standard Arms is a great, accurate shooter. 6 grs of Red Dot is very mild. Less than 10 miles from me, there's a Standard Arms Model G for sale at a small gun store (35 Rem), that I saw before the Model M. I'd never seen (or heard of) these Standard Arms rifles. This store is asking $1700 for the Model G, which, to me, is way too much for a rifle that might or might not function. I got the Model M for a third of the price. Still, if I could talk the store down on the price - alot- I'd be tempted.
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Post by battis on Feb 22, 2022 11:11:14 GMT -5
Does anyone know how to remove the action handle on the Model M? It's different from the Model G. There's a horizontal pin holding it on but I'm not sure what the configuration of that pin is.
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Post by hcompton79 on Mar 1, 2022 23:43:22 GMT -5
I don't have direct experience with this model, but I have one of the Standard Arms manuals that mentions the combination tool can be used to unlock the support bracket on the model M and slide it forward on the barrel. Here is what the combination tool looks like, it has a square wrench for adjusting the gas valve on the model G and a pointed end that can be used to activate the take-down mechanism, it stores in a .35 Rem case: Looking at photos of the model M, there is a crosspin in the support bracket that has the same square nut for the combination tool on the left side. I would presume that turning the square nut would rotate a cutout in the pin inline with the barrel so that the bracket can be slid forward. Barring the combination tool, an adjustable wrench would probably work. I don't know this for fact, it's just my supposition, but it may be of some help. Also, I have a Model G, although I didn't pay nearly as much as your shop is asking. It's a neat but finicky rifle. I'm still trying to work up some suitable cartridges for it. Shooting factory or normally hand-loaded .30 Rem results in the rifle being heavily over-gassed. Some research has indicated that the Remington autoloading cartridges in use at the time were loaded with fast burning nitroglycerin single base powder, the modern progressive burning powders we have may not be suitable for the gas system. I'm experimenting with faster rifle powders.
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Post by battis on Mar 2, 2022 4:41:12 GMT -5
Great info. Thanks. Numrich has a "FRONT TUBE END LOCK" as they call it, for sale. The photo of the part for sale shows its shape, and you're right - turning that nut would align the cut-out with the barrel and, in theory, allow it to slide forward. I'm trying to find a suitable wrench to turn the square nut. The nut is situated so that a regular adjustable wrench can't get a grip on it, even a very small wrench. That tool in your pic would be perfect. I'm also at a point where I don't know if it's worth taking the rifle down that far. The rifle works great but I'd like to do a deep cleaning.
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Post by hcompton79 on Mar 2, 2022 20:43:47 GMT -5
The nut measures approximately 0.180" square, so a 4.5MM square nut driver should work.
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Post by battis on Mar 5, 2022 6:23:39 GMT -5
I bought a FRONT TUBE END LOCK from Numrich (pictured above). It has the cutout for the barrel. This is what I received: It doesn't have a cutout. I called Numrich and they're going to check the "bin" to see if there's any with a cutout. Then I got to thinking (dangerous): the part I received is pristine, as if never used. Maybe the company fit each lock to each caliber rifle. A lock for a .30 wouldn't fit a .25 or .35 barrel, due to the radius of the barrel. I'll know when I remove the one that's in the rifle. At least I can bring the lock to the hardware store to try and find a wrench. They frown on bringing rifles into stores here in MA.
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Post by hcompton79 on Mar 6, 2022 21:17:13 GMT -5
I had to buy a bolt and striker for my model G from Numrich. Both parts had their major machining operations done, but neither was finished. The bolt needed to have the firing pin channel drilled out and the locking wedge surfaces machined. The striker had to have the channel drilled out for its spring.
I believe the parts Numrich has are what's left from when Standard Arms went bankrupt the second time. I don't think they had the opportunity to finish machining all the parts.
As far as I know, the outer profiles of all barrels is the same (as having multiple diameters would necessitate a separate bracket for the pump handle and different sized holes in the receiver) and only the drilled and rifled inner diameter is different.
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Post by battis on Mar 7, 2022 17:45:39 GMT -5
I smeared some penetrating grease on both ends of that lock, waited, tried to turn it, but it wouldn't budge. Then I gave it a tap and it popped out like a regular pin. That cutout in the lock doesn't do anything that I can see. It doesn't match the contour of the barrel at all - it doesn't even engage the barrel when it's inserted with the cutout away from the barrel, as it would if it acted as a lock. I'm going to explore it some more.
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Post by battis on Mar 7, 2022 20:40:06 GMT -5
I got the front tube end off, cleaned it up, and now I see that the lock actually does what it's supposed to do when the cutout is away from the barrel. Just enough pressure on the barrel to keep the tube end from moving. Someone at some time removed these parts and wasn't as careful as I am. I removed the bolt and plan to give it a good cleaning. There's alot of dried, caked grease in the tube and on the connecting rods. I'd like to remove the pump/action handle but I can't figure out how that cross pin is held in place. Dirty guns drive me nuts.
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Post by hcompton79 on Mar 10, 2022 14:35:31 GMT -5
If you are referring to the cross pin on the pump handle itself that acts as the pivot for the lock button, it should just tap through the handle. It could certainly be peened over from years of use though.
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Post by battis on Mar 14, 2022 19:36:01 GMT -5
Yeah, I was talking about the pin/bolt that actually holds the brass pump handle on. It seems that there would be a C clamp that locks into the groove in the end of the pin.
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