Post by hovercat on Jun 16, 2012 22:19:21 GMT -5
I recently bought a 1905 Winchester at a pawn shop , not realizing that the ammo was such a pain in the wallet. After some research I managed to fire it.
I sometimes have more time than cash, and cases can be hand filed from .38spl brass. I finger press a case into a .38spl die so that I have something to hold onto, and use a small flat file to reduce the rim to .405. Then a small triangle file to reduce the thickness and get a bit of extractor groove at the same time. When the case fits a 9mm shell holder, it will work fine in my rifle. I like RP cases, there is already a bit of a groove there. It only takes about 5 minutes per case. I will reload them as many times as I can, would annealing help?
I had to give up $70 for a # 350319 mould on Ebay, no way around it. I have not found a .352 sizing die (yet) so I just pan lube the bullets as cast, and clean the bases (no gas check yet) before loading.
I trim the cases to 1.14 with a .38spl Lee case trimmer, I had to shorten the pin just a hair with a sharpening stone. I just use a .38/357 sizing die and 9mm shell holder. I do not expand the case mouth, the bullets seat firmly and you can feel each driving band as it is seated. No crimp either.
CCI small rifle primer and 10gr 2400 was barely enough to eject the case and feed a new one. This will be my range load, so that I do not have to chase brass, the brass literally went 6" onto the bench. Accuracy was only fair but with no leading of the barrel. Really this was just a chech for function, I was suprised that the loads were strong enough to work the action.
Next loads will be 11gr 2400, and I will slowly work up. I will be taking this rifle hog hunting in the N Texas brush this fall. I will post a range report with the new loads next outing. Many thanks to all the info in this forum , I am glad to know that I am not the only one to think these old rifles are great.
I sometimes have more time than cash, and cases can be hand filed from .38spl brass. I finger press a case into a .38spl die so that I have something to hold onto, and use a small flat file to reduce the rim to .405. Then a small triangle file to reduce the thickness and get a bit of extractor groove at the same time. When the case fits a 9mm shell holder, it will work fine in my rifle. I like RP cases, there is already a bit of a groove there. It only takes about 5 minutes per case. I will reload them as many times as I can, would annealing help?
I had to give up $70 for a # 350319 mould on Ebay, no way around it. I have not found a .352 sizing die (yet) so I just pan lube the bullets as cast, and clean the bases (no gas check yet) before loading.
I trim the cases to 1.14 with a .38spl Lee case trimmer, I had to shorten the pin just a hair with a sharpening stone. I just use a .38/357 sizing die and 9mm shell holder. I do not expand the case mouth, the bullets seat firmly and you can feel each driving band as it is seated. No crimp either.
CCI small rifle primer and 10gr 2400 was barely enough to eject the case and feed a new one. This will be my range load, so that I do not have to chase brass, the brass literally went 6" onto the bench. Accuracy was only fair but with no leading of the barrel. Really this was just a chech for function, I was suprised that the loads were strong enough to work the action.
Next loads will be 11gr 2400, and I will slowly work up. I will be taking this rifle hog hunting in the N Texas brush this fall. I will post a range report with the new loads next outing. Many thanks to all the info in this forum , I am glad to know that I am not the only one to think these old rifles are great.