I got a box of Hornady 357 solid tip bullets, made a swadge die and reduced them to .351. Then took a bag of 357 Max. brass, using a mandrel on my lathe cut the brass to length, turned the rim and cut new extractor groove. Now I have loaded ammo. Have fired a few rounds to make sure they work and they do. I'm trying to post pictures. riceone
That's pretty cool. I'd read you could use Maximum brass. What kind of tool do you use to cut the extractor groove and reduce the rim?
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I ground a tool bit the angle of the extractor groove. Turned the rim to correct diameter and set the compound to "0" then run the compound in to correct dept and noted the reading and did all the same. Made a mark on the mandrel that the shell casing slides over where the end should be cut and then set the bit there before putting the casing on. Cut it off then moved back did the rim and groove. Little time consuming but I have brass now.
Nice to see someone else try it. Couple of thoughts having made a few hundred of the shells through a similar process. Use the grooves on the inside of the chuck jaws to hold the base of the shell when cutting to length. Turn a spud or use the one you have that fits inside the shell mouth and put that in a drill chuck in the tailstock. The grooves inside the chuck jaws will position the shell base with a slight pull while tightening the chuck and then you won't have to move the cut off tool except in and out. Base is solid enough not to collapse. The spud in the mouth keeps the mouth from going out of round, collapsing or flaring unnecessarily. Make sure you let the spud go further in the shell than the trim cut, keeps the wobblies out of the shell after the cut. I used a 1/32" cut off toll I ground for the purpose to cut down on pressures. For a final accurate trim, all shell casings being close to nominal, I made a spud for the Lee trim cutter and mounted the cutter in the lathe chuck. Turned the spud with the pin end for the primer hole close to the ID of the shell. Once the length was set you could let the lathe run and just hold the shell in your hand and run up on the spud and off again. All my shells are within a couple of thousandths of nominal doing it this way. You may get some variation as the inside of the 357 maximum shell depth seems to vary but you get used to it after a hundred or so shells and if you're careful you can have the length right on the money
Speer makes a 170 grain, .357 magnum bullet which is close to some of the old 177 grain bullets mentioned in the early Ideal handbooks. MFG# 4230.
You have a good idea. I did have some variation in the first 20 I did. Second 20 was better. If I put a stop for the carriage at the proper length to cut it off, that will eliminate one variable. I use a live center to hold the case on the mandrel for turning. How do you position the case to trim the rim and recut the extractor groove.
riceone - Work close to the chuck face for both processes, hold the shell within 1/2" of the rim. Set the tool for the rim trim as perpendicular to the shell as you can and place a stop on the ways to stop the saddle and tool from traveling too close to the chuck. I found when trimming the rim, passing in towards the chuck face, you will develop a sharp edge. This edge can bind on the underside of the magazine ears and lift the loaded ammo so it jams into the top of the chamber entrance. A slight bevel from another tool process or simply file the leading edge (extractor groove side of the rim) will stop this failure. The smoother your finish the better with the rim. I stayed at .410 +.000/-.002 for the diameter; 1.380" for the case length, +.000/-.005.
For the extractor groove I ground a specific tool with the finished shape of the extractor groove, both the flat and the angle. The .357 Max shells already have a minor thin groove and I used the bottom of that slight groove to set my depth. I used the groove side of finished rim to position the tool (also perpendicular) and then turned into the stop point gradually. Make sure you lock the saddle so it stays in position. I use specs I got from a .38 super site for the angle and groove width. Headspace for the .351 is the thickness of the rim .0.050".
Both of these procedures require stop and start for each shell case. Oil and lube your gear train and any bearings because the off and on will probably cause the motor to heat up a bit for more than a few shells.
I did the file process of the leading edge of the shell as a separate process and let the shell hang out of the chuck about 3/4" then gently closed the chuck enough to hold it. You could do this process with an electric drill or anything since you are just smoothing and deburring.
I cleaned all the shells afterwards in an ultrasonic cleaner and then after drying I threw them into the tumbler for an hour or so with a final wash with dish detergent. Sized, primed and then loaded. One thing you should always do is make sure the mouth of the case is square with the centerline of the shell and you are as close as possible to nominal length of the shell. If the shell is too short you stand the chance of burning the throat of the chamber.
I saw some of the same remarks on using the 357 magnum brass as well. It's more than just a little short and some of the discussions ended the same, that it is not a good idea. Major reason I can see is the possibility of burning the throat of the rifle. Consider the use of .38 spl in a .357 magnum, you always have to clean the cylinder walls of buildup due to the shortness of the cartridge of the 38 compared to the 357.
Post by relicfinder on Oct 12, 2011 21:31:36 GMT -5
I just wanted to pass this info on. I followed the information in converting 357 maximum to 351 wsl. I used Jamison brass. Every round failed. The rear of the shell seperated from the case wall. After inspecting the failed brass it appears that Jamison brass is made in a two step process. every round fired failed by blowing off the bottom of the brass. Remington brass is drawn brass. I have had no brass failures to date. base.
My first post here - long been an enthusiast for early 20th Century arms - so here goes. I recently acquired a 1907 .351 WSL (dated to 1912) and joined the countless numbers of collectors searching for and complaining about cartridges for the rifle. I just found out today that Load-X Ammo in Santa Rosa, CA now offers .351
fire15vp: Does anybody know of, seen or owned a Standard Arms Co in any calibre other than 25, 30 or 35 Remington and the 50 calibre shot?
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fire15vp: Does anyone know of, seen or owned a standard arms cartridge other than 35 Remington?
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jsafe: WARNING WARNING these model G in 30 cal. I know of 3, IN GAS OPERATING MODE that have gone FULL AUTO WITHOUT WARNING!! Empty magazine in a burst.
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blackbahart: the only thing scary about the model 81 in 300 savage is $58 a box of ammo ,otherwise mine seems to work fine
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351winchester: Ammo score. I was in rural Ga. sometime ago and I stopped at a Mom and Pop bait & tackle store and noticed that they sold ammo too. I asked if they had any .351 and they said no. I asked if I could take a look and low and behold found 2 boxes which I bou
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glenerd: Just joined. Lifelong gun owner, retired Army officer. Have 1905 Winchester WSL.32 inherited in 1961 and never did anything with it. It is in decent condition, all parts are there, no cracks in stock, no rust.
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chrisb: So, I made a tool myself.
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buckeyeofmaine: I have 4 boxes of 401 Winchester Factory ammunition 200 grain with three original Clips looking for a home. I can be reached at 207 659 6348 or BuckeyeofMaine@aol.com aol.com
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starczech: If anyone has a spare or unneeded/extra 35 WSL magazine and is willing to consider selling it...I'd sure like to hear from you. Maybe we could work something out for a price or barter. Think about it. Thanks.
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aaarms: Hi new here,i have one of these in about the same condition but I know nothing about them,like worth mainly I want to sell it but don't no what to ask for it.thanks.
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mountain: i need some 30 remington ammo
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