rmh
Junior Member
Posts: 95
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Post by rmh on Jan 28, 2009 23:46:23 GMT -5
I was surprised to come across new berdan-primed .401 Winchester brass at Graf & Sons: www.grafs.com/product/204100No mention is given of the berdan primer size and there are some reports out there of other Fiocchi brass being hit or miss on quality. I would order some myself, but there appears to be no source of berdan primers in the US since PMC ceased importing primers into the US. There are methods to convert the berdan-primed cases for boxer primers, but its probably just as easy to convert 7.62x39 brass.
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rmh
Junior Member
Posts: 95
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Post by rmh on Nov 17, 2010 14:52:24 GMT -5
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rmh
Junior Member
Posts: 95
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Post by rmh on Nov 17, 2010 20:59:59 GMT -5
Drilling the new flashhole:I selected the proper drill bit by fitting the bit to the flashhole of a manufactured boxer-primer case. For a drill bit guide to assist in centering the bit, I used an inverted 9 mm case set inside the .401 case. The drill bit had a tendency to follow the berdan flashholes and end up off-center even when using the 9mm case as a guide. Next step was to try a centering tool bit to set a cone-shaped depression in which to start the bit. Works better. Removing the anvil:I tried a Lee primer pocket cleaner tool, chucked up in the drill. Works okay when the drill bit had driven through the anvil, but not so well when the drill bit had driven through slightly off-center. When using the centering tool, the new flashhole hole is centered better and the anvil more compromised- a hammer decapping tool popped the remains of the anvil out well enough. I might next try a four-flute milling tool to remove the anvil, perhaps before drilling the flashhole. Swaging the primer pocketI used a C&H press-mounted primer pocket swager which has a taper that forces casehead material into the primer pocket, reducing the berdan primer pocket to the correct size to hold a boxer primer. Works real swell. PrimingEasiest step was to prime the case with boxer Winchester large rifle primers using a Lee priming tool. Primer seats well and seems tight in the pocket. Photo shows (1) a case with berdan primer intact (2) new flashhole drilled (3) primer pocket cleaned (the flashhole on this one is slightly off-center) (4) primer pocket swaged and boxer primer installed
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Post by wsl49er on Nov 20, 2010 8:34:43 GMT -5
On the hole drilling to re-work the Berdan cases. You might try an end cut micrograin carbide mill. Available as small as 1/32" diameter but there should be one available the same size as the anvil and hole. Create a pocket in some soft jaws to hold the case rim up and once your mill is centered on the primer pocket you could plunge mill the anvil down and then continue through for the hole of the boxers. This works in drill presses as well but they need to be secure.
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rmh
Junior Member
Posts: 95
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Post by rmh on Nov 23, 2010 20:26:09 GMT -5
So far I have been using a hand-held electric drill- no drill press available. Before I start on the other 290 cases, I might invest in a small unit for the reloading bench.
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Post by wsl49er on Nov 24, 2010 11:16:44 GMT -5
If what you find in the way of a drill press is sturdy enough you might be able to perform plunge milling. Might not hurt to invest in a small dialed cross slide table which you can use to position work more accurately one the drill press table and also allow a few inches of travel for some light milling projects. There's also some small combination milling&lathe machines floating around the planet and there's always a used one somewhere for sale. Might give you a bit more maneuverability and function. Companies like Smithy, Shoreline, Prazzi and there's others, these are all I could think of right now.
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crank
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by crank on Jun 1, 2011 19:10:24 GMT -5
Just my 2cents worth, I just received 500 rounds of this brass and much to my delight the primer pocket measures out at .210. I was debating if I did the right thing by ordering Berdan type cases. I quickly made a test of flattening the anvil with some expedient tools and wound up with a piece of brass needing only to drill a new flash hole. A large primer is too snug to press in with finger pressure and I plan to use primer sealant to guarantee that it stays put. If the pocket loosens then I will concern myself with the swaging technique. Being paranoid, I just placed another order for 500 more cases, just so I NEVER have to fear running out of brass. Now I just have to figure out how I can make .410 jacketed bullets into .406ish bullets. All this and I still haven't picked up the rifle! It will be safely in my clutches this weekend. (Add evil laugh!). When I get a wild hair, I tend to go into it full tilt. The worst part is that this grew out of a search for a wrecked 1905 Winchester to perform sinister experiments on. I just managed to get side-tracked when I found the 1910 and a touch of that pesky nostalgia kicked in and I decided I would make up for the fact that I owned one briefly 20 years ago. That one, sadly, was only a 2 digit serial number and I never shot it, even though I got a bag of ammo made up on converted 7.62x39 brass. As usual, I am too busy working with my projects to figure out when I will go to the range and shoot them. Such is life.
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Post by mtmarfield on Nov 26, 2013 18:22:49 GMT -5
Greetings!
In the primer pocket swaging phase, am I to understand that the two "berdan flash holes" are still 'open', or not, when the central flash hole is drilled? My thinking is that if not, one would have three flash holes, and greatly increased ignition of the powder. This may, or may not, be a good thing. Comments?
Thanks Much!
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