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Post by battis on Oct 18, 2017 15:41:24 GMT -5
I picked up another .351 and decided to give it a good cleaning, which included removing the hammer. Any tricks to getting the pin back in to reinstall the hammer? I'm guessing that back in the day the factory used jigs or clamps or whatever to install them.
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Post by blackbahart on Oct 18, 2017 16:42:41 GMT -5
on the 07 with ser # over 30000 the hammer spring guide rod has a wee hole going across and you just open vise so rod will push into spring and when you reach the hole put small drill bit in to hold compressed spring .
if no hole pick a small drill bit #40 ish and drill small hole 3/8" from the end ,same orientation that the pin in hammer is and compress as the other hope this helps ,never tried assembling with out compressing the hammer spring
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Post by battis on Oct 18, 2017 17:10:53 GMT -5
It's serial number is in the 9500 range so there's no hole, but I will add one. Good idea. Thanks.
That is one tough spring to compress.
I got the rifle for $200 - all it needs is a good cleaning. I have a new buffer ready to install and a Wolff spring on the way.
The store also had a magazine for the .401 which I bought.
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Post by battis on Oct 19, 2017 12:49:00 GMT -5
Well, it worked. I tried drilling through the guide rod but the bits kept breaking. So, I bought a high speed bit for $1.50, chucked it into the drill press, lined up the guide rod in a small vise and drilled away. And drilled and drilled, but the metal is so hard, I only dented it. After awhile I said the heck with it and ordered a guide rod with the hole in the end from Numrich. Then I went back to the drill press and got more aggressive and eventually I had drilled a hole through the rod. I compressed the spring over it, stuck a paper clip in the hole and now it's all back together. That's basically the same technique I use to replace a recoil spring - I use a cleaning rod with a narrow nut screwed on one end and a predrilled hole on the other to lock the spring in place in the bolt (I use a cotter pin in the hole to keep the spring retracted), then I install the bolt and remove the cleaning rod and replace it with the guide rod. Numrich wouldn't cancel the order so I'll have an extra guide rod. There was a crack in the stock wrist so I opened it up a little and filled the crack with a two part epoxy and West Systems filler, then closed it up and let it set - it looks pretty good. I had intended on selling this gun, but...
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Post by battis on Oct 21, 2017 23:08:27 GMT -5
The Wolff spring arrived, and I installed it along with a new buffer. No matter how may times I replace a spring, it's still a bugger to do. Like I posted earlier, I compress the spring onto a cleaning rod inside the bolt, put the bolt in place, back out the cleaning rod and replace it with the regular guide rod. I slip a small metal rod through the hole in the back of the "housing" that holds the buffer, and that rod keeps the spring in line until the guide rod is screwed in. I cleaned the wood up but it had been treated with linseed oil at some point - I might just leave it as is, since it looks pretty good. There's five notches cut into the forend - I'm thinking a deer tally. The rear sight had been removed and replaced with a Pacific adjustable sight on the side of the receiver. Two holes had been drilled on the top, probably for a scope. All cleaned up and ready for a test fire. The serial number date is 1908.
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Post by blackbahart on Oct 24, 2017 9:38:52 GMT -5
the ones I have drilled didn't seem hard,I should have mentioned the use of the center drill first as the small diameter of the rod will/does deflect the regular twist drills and can break them.
the end result is you got it done and now have a spare rod for the future .These rifles are addicting Cheers Peter
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Post by battis on Oct 24, 2017 10:01:54 GMT -5
The test fire went well except that I had installed the magazine spring in backwards and it wouldn't feed the rounds. I turned the spring around and now all is good.
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Post by battis on Nov 19, 2017 16:41:31 GMT -5
I also bought the pin for the new guide rod that I got from Numrich. The pin in the original guide rod looks like it was peened over at each hole to hold it in place. What is the technique for peening the pin at the ends? It's probably simple as heck but it's not registering in my brain.
I might replace the guide rod in my .35 WSL.
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