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Post by ilikeoldguns on Mar 5, 2017 15:19:51 GMT -5
I've seen this mentioned a few times, but can anyone point me to a step by step guide?
I understand that .357 Max (lots of work!) or .360 DW brass can be trimmed to length for .351 and arguably some extractor groove work is necessary as well. In addition, it seems .401 can be trimmed from .414 Mag?
But how is this done?
I am looking for a benchtop metal lathe, but it seems a drill press will work as well? But how to you get the length and rim diameter right? Surely you don't just hold the file up against it with your hand? There must be a jig of some kind?
Thanks for your time.
Steve
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Post by blackbahart on Mar 5, 2017 17:06:45 GMT -5
I use a mini lathe for doing all my brass first cut rim to proper diameter and then do xtractor cut
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Post by bollweevil on Mar 8, 2017 13:47:22 GMT -5
I don't have a lathe, but you really need access to one if you plan to do very many. I used .360 DW brass. It took me a great deal of time to do 100 pieces. I wrapped a small piece of painters tape around each cartridge, to prevent scratching, and also give a guide for the extractor cut. I then chucked each one up in a cordless drill, which I would hold against a variable speed belt grinder running the opposite direction. I tried different grit belts, but settled in on 400. It would take me about 20 seconds to sand the case head down to .405-.407". I would usually check the case twice with calipers until I was within this range. Anything over .407" were too tight in magazines. I did cut a few too small to use. I think anything below .403 could be shot, but are a little too small. After this step. I would then cut a taper for the extractor groove starting around .25" up the web of the case back towards the case head. It is nothing more than a slight taper on mine. If you ever look ant the Jameson brass, you will see that they have done something similar to this. Then just remove the tape, and trim in my RCBS trimmer to ~ 1.376". The .360 brass from starline is high quality and I really like it. If you plan to do very many, try to find a small lathe like blackbart has. You get sore hands and bug eyed after a while. I did also do some in the drill press, but it was quite a bit slower, but likely easier to be more precise. The extractor groove, I think, may be more for holding the case while reloading. My rifle seemed to extract fine without it, but I had also installed a new extractor and spring. I hope this helps.
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Post by bollweevil on Mar 8, 2017 13:53:15 GMT -5
I believe if you go to the thread "New to Forum", there is a post that I made on Feb 20, 2017 showing a new Jameson case with the extractor cut they do. I do not create quite that much of a taper as they do. I'm kinda nervous about doing too much trimming near the case web above the rim.
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